A wine lover’s tour of Split

Before you scamper off on a wine tour, taste a few glasses in a wine bar or stock up on your Croatian vintages, we’ll drop some Split wine intel. It was the Ancient Greeks who brought viticulture to these shores. And, in the 2,500 years since, the wine scene has flourished to establish Split, and Croatia, as an old–world wine producer. Though, that doesn’t stop them getting up to some arguably controversial shenanigans with their reds and whites. Here, wine is often mixed with sparkling or still water to make bevanda (red) or gemišt (white). All above board, of course. But if diluted wine is firmly on your ‘no’ list, be sure to avoid those menu items. 

Perhaps the Roman’s left their biggest wine stamp on Split’s city streets. The basement of Diocletian’s Palace still holds parts of the original wine press, and the cellars that once stored the Emperor’s wine are still explorable today. Outside the city, growers are producing wine from around 130 different grape varieties, some of which potentially date back to those early Greek settlers. So, should you plump for one of the many wine tours in Split, expect to have your wine palate wowed with unique wines that bear little resemblance to the Med-style reds and fruity Italian vintages we know so well. 

Once a day, Putalj Winery opens its doors to Split visitors eager to taste their wine, provided there’s space in their busy reservations calendar. The good news is, if you do get a spot on their tour, they’ll pick you up and drop you off in central Split. The bad news? This isn’t the cheapest wine tour you’ll ever take. The €80 fee affords you a skip around the vineyard and barrel room, tastings from bottled vintages – and a crack at some wine fresh from the fermentation tanks. You’ll also get some light bites – think bread, cheese and charcuterie, along with an olive oil tasting. You are hosted by the owners and there’s a lift thrown in too, but you may not be too concerned if they happen to be booked up on your chosen day. 

If the €80 fee for Putalj Winery has you looking for other options, consider a trip to the Vučica Winery. Here, the most expensive wine tasting comes in at around €42. For that, they’ll pour out 5 wines and pair them with a slightly more appealing snack platter. Homemade cheeses, black olives, smoked prosciutto and homemade bread and olive oil will certainly get your tastebuds dancing. This is perhaps more of a gastronomic experience, though, with price levels dropping down as low as €13.30 for a taste of just three wines, there are options for all. Few frills here but that might be just what you’re looking for. 

There’s something undeniably charming about wineries that dabble in the more rustic end of the market. And, pleasingly, Bedalov Winery is no exception. Their organic vineyard in the Kaštela hills focusses on indigenous vine varieties that love the elevated and blustery conditions you find 400 metres above sea level. Slightly nearer the coast, they’ve commandeered a traditional Dalmatian home to host wine tastings in. Around a 20 minute drive from Split, the house is the kind of place where you can drop in any time (during working hours) for a tasting, or to pick up a bottle or two. The best way to experience this winery? Book in for one of their seasonal, home cooked meals that, naturally, pair well with their wines.